So my work situation is fairly nice. We are paid quite well, given free dorm-style apartments, and a meal card that covers meals Monday to Friday. Since it does not cover meals on the weekends, it forces me to explore the city and find places to eat.
Anyone who knows me, knows that I can be somewhat picky about the types of foods that I eat. At home, I eat mostly raw foods, so very minimal meat, especially pork (I don't like the taste of most pork, except bacon. Bacon is in its own category, lol!). In addition to these limitations, guess what my least favorite cuisine is? Yup, you guessed it...CHINESE FOOD.
I am Simone, and I have chosen to live in China for 15 months, despite not liking Chinese food.
Ok now that little tid bit is out of the way, you all can imagine my food struggles in China. It was very bad initially because I knew no restaurants, was not very familiar with the metro system, and struggled to take taxis because they rarely spoke or understood any English. Luckily, my boss has traveled abroad and experienced the same thing. She always invited me out for meals and showed me a few places in the village that were affordable and tasty.
Over the course of a month, I found that I liked to keep it cheap and simple on the weekends; noodle shop or rice shop. I liked the noodle shop because it served huge bowls of noodles for 7 RMB (slightly more than $1). I liked the rice shop because it was close, filling, and had veggies that came with it for only 10 RMB (~$1.75). Following the Dragon Boat Festival, I was much less inclined to go out looking for new places to eat, and became a regular at either of these places. It was at the rice shop where I became a regular. While small, I can usually enjoy my food without "much" trouble.
I like to describe this place as being a real life "Diner Dash" experience. When I initially went there alone, it was quite interesting. The menus were falling apart and had no pictures or English. My sure fire method became "the look and point" method; you find the 1st or last thing on the menu, point to it, and hope that it's edible. By my 4th week I found a rice bowl that was mostly veggies. It became my go to each week.
Now, as I have described many times before, many people stare at me. It's a constant thing, and I tell myself that they are mostly curious, and attempt to ignore it. This always happened to me by the cooks. I get my food. I look up. I smile and wave. They keep staring. I go about my business.
I found some comfort in my routine, but I noticed small changes with my food each time. I always ordered the same thing, but my food was slightly different. I figured out that the cook was watching me eat. He noticed if I liked something, and the next time I ordered it, there would be more of it in my bowl. After a month or so, my bowls were meatless and filled with egg, green beans, and jalapeños! It was exactly what I wanted, despite being unable to tell them.
I also noticed that small improvements were made throughout the restaurant. One week all the menus were replaced. The next, the AC units were being used. The week after, the cook had a hair cut and a new uniform. The next, the was a fridge full of cold cokes and sprites. Heaven on earth I tell you!
While these little things may seem like nothing, I found them to be so encouraging. I struggle a lot with being foreign in the village. There's always a lot of pointing and laughing and shock. Its very often not fun, but I can say that people always pay attention to me. Though it takes a while for me to get things done here, persistence pays off. Despite not actually "doing" all that much, not giving in to the temptation of staying locked inside allowed me to find foods that I enjoyed. I will take any progress because it means that I am at least moving forward!
Sunday, August 24, 2014
Saturday, August 16, 2014
My First Holiday
The Dragon Boat Festival in China is a festival is a way to commemorate the death of famous poet, Qu Yuan. I encourage you to read more about his this story; it's somewhat interesting. Today's people are somewhat disconnected from the traditions of this holiday and it mostly seen as a (rare) day off from work. Luckily, I live in a urban village where more people celebrate and observe this holiday.
In downtown Guangzhou, boat races are held that draw rowing teams from all over the world. Unfortunately, I never saw the actual races but got to explore some of the city and see people in a much more relaxed state as they hung out by the river front. As you can image, my presence started quite a commotion during the races. Everyone yelled as I walked by, camera in hand. I was able to catch some very special moments this way.
By this time in my narrative, the thrill of travel really began to wear off and that whole "being different" thing kicked in. I would love to say that I took part in many of the dinners and festivities of this holiday, but I really just wanted to stay in seclusion. I spent most of my 3-day-weekend inside, catching up on rest, recovering from my first club experience (I'll describe later), and basically hiding from people.
Ok, first let me describe the club experience because it was nuts (this is technically later, right?!). So my African friends that bought dinner (previous post) for my friends and I, hit us up to go to a club. Somehow this weekend was the busiest weekend for all of us. One of my classmates mother (who is awesome!) was visiting and in Beijing, and my other 2 classmates were heading to Beijing for the weekend, but meeting up with friends that night. I was looking to do something "other" for my first night alone, so I met up with them for a bite to eat and then to a club.
Maybe I'm getting older and all clubs are like this, or maybe I'm so American and just feel like anything other than our party scene is just not up to par, but let me tell you...I arrived to an OMG party with techno blasting at deafening volumes. It actually took me 3 days to fully recover my hearing after that, but I digress. Now if you're like me, then you have no clue what an OMG party is. I attended one and can say that I still have no idea what it is, but I'll describe the scene. Loud, flashy, corny, and neon watered down American trends, but I schleeeeep doh! LOL. Only some of you will get that phrase, but really I could have lived without it. They actually brought in some American DJs who did a good job and some random, no-name performers who did covers of old American songs like Rhianna's Cake. It was like culture shock all over again as I could NOT, for the life of me, understand why everyone was so hype.
After staying out wayyyyy too late (I got back at 5am) and being awakened by fireworks that sounded like a drive by, I was up. Despite not really feeling like interacting with locals, I decided I wanted to do something American. I decided that was to eat Pizza Hut. Still feeling experimental, I took a "bus" to the closer metro station. Now I say "bus" because it more accurately could be described as a glorified 12 passenger van that drives as fast as possible with so many people crammed inside it, that people are standing in the isles. By time I got to the metro I was just happy to be alive.
I don't know if it was because it was a holiday weekend or I just was sensitive, but by week 3 in China, the stares really started to get to me. I will say that its actually more than just people looking at me, but the looks of disgust or fear that come as I walk, stand, or sit anywhere. Having people jump away from you because they touched your skin or laugh in your face point and joking about you because they know you don't understand, is not the best of feelings. By time I exited the metro I was pretty exhausted and defeated so I really wasn't trying to hear all the pedicab drivers yelling "Halllloooooo" and, well, any other random English in my face as I try to find the Pizza Hut.
I walked quickly down the street to get away from them and to get a better idea of what was in the area. I was slowed down by a group of girls who were walking much slower than I was, and I tried to get around them before having to see their reactions. Unfortunately, I was not fast enough and 2 of the girls separated from a third girl who was directly in front of me. They yelled something to her (I assume my description) and she ran a few step up and then over in fear, and they all walked away laughing. Extremely hurt, I walked to the intersection and crossed the street.
Who knew that I could, while minding my own business, offend so many people?
Though shaken, I was still hungry and determined to find the Pizza Hut. It was in a huge mall that took up the space equivalent to 4 or 5 American city blocks. I walk up and see a long line, forcing me to stand outside and wait as every passerby stared and laughed. I get finally get a table and am able to eat near the back of the restaurant in relative peace.
Many people could, and have said, "just ignore them." "This is how they feel in America." "Just think of it like you're famous!" But I would argue that none of these things were felt in my experience. I doubt that they ever feel like this. I don't want to lessen their struggles and experience, but I cannot imagine that this is how they feel in America.
I hate it. In fact, I really hate being the center of attention in any situation. I can remember feeling like crying in my younger days when everyone would stop and stare at me while they sang "Happy Birthday to youuuuu!" Yeah. So one can only imagine how I feel when the attention is seemingly so negative every time you go anywhere.
Is it ignorance? Yes. In its most literal form.
Are there cultural differences? Yes.
Are they used to seeing black people? Absolutely not.
I have dealt with a lot of uncomfortable situations before. I have been in similar situations before while traveling abroad. I have gone to cultural sensitivity trainings, body language classes, and been in a myriad of other situations that have allowed me to have a fairly open mind, but being mocked and ridiculed on a daily basis is totally different. I have found myself making decisions like skipping meals to avoid having to go outside and I often give myself pep talks just to go across the street to the grocery store.
This Chinese experience is giving me a lot more of "other" than I could have ever imagined or prepared for.
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| View from my room of the fireworks and decorations in Lijiao Village |
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| Rowing team observing some of the Dragon Boat traditions |
By this time in my narrative, the thrill of travel really began to wear off and that whole "being different" thing kicked in. I would love to say that I took part in many of the dinners and festivities of this holiday, but I really just wanted to stay in seclusion. I spent most of my 3-day-weekend inside, catching up on rest, recovering from my first club experience (I'll describe later), and basically hiding from people.
Ok, first let me describe the club experience because it was nuts (this is technically later, right?!). So my African friends that bought dinner (previous post) for my friends and I, hit us up to go to a club. Somehow this weekend was the busiest weekend for all of us. One of my classmates mother (who is awesome!) was visiting and in Beijing, and my other 2 classmates were heading to Beijing for the weekend, but meeting up with friends that night. I was looking to do something "other" for my first night alone, so I met up with them for a bite to eat and then to a club.
Maybe I'm getting older and all clubs are like this, or maybe I'm so American and just feel like anything other than our party scene is just not up to par, but let me tell you...I arrived to an OMG party with techno blasting at deafening volumes. It actually took me 3 days to fully recover my hearing after that, but I digress. Now if you're like me, then you have no clue what an OMG party is. I attended one and can say that I still have no idea what it is, but I'll describe the scene. Loud, flashy, corny, and neon watered down American trends, but I schleeeeep doh! LOL. Only some of you will get that phrase, but really I could have lived without it. They actually brought in some American DJs who did a good job and some random, no-name performers who did covers of old American songs like Rhianna's Cake. It was like culture shock all over again as I could NOT, for the life of me, understand why everyone was so hype.
After staying out wayyyyy too late (I got back at 5am) and being awakened by fireworks that sounded like a drive by, I was up. Despite not really feeling like interacting with locals, I decided I wanted to do something American. I decided that was to eat Pizza Hut. Still feeling experimental, I took a "bus" to the closer metro station. Now I say "bus" because it more accurately could be described as a glorified 12 passenger van that drives as fast as possible with so many people crammed inside it, that people are standing in the isles. By time I got to the metro I was just happy to be alive.
I don't know if it was because it was a holiday weekend or I just was sensitive, but by week 3 in China, the stares really started to get to me. I will say that its actually more than just people looking at me, but the looks of disgust or fear that come as I walk, stand, or sit anywhere. Having people jump away from you because they touched your skin or laugh in your face point and joking about you because they know you don't understand, is not the best of feelings. By time I exited the metro I was pretty exhausted and defeated so I really wasn't trying to hear all the pedicab drivers yelling "Halllloooooo" and, well, any other random English in my face as I try to find the Pizza Hut.
I walked quickly down the street to get away from them and to get a better idea of what was in the area. I was slowed down by a group of girls who were walking much slower than I was, and I tried to get around them before having to see their reactions. Unfortunately, I was not fast enough and 2 of the girls separated from a third girl who was directly in front of me. They yelled something to her (I assume my description) and she ran a few step up and then over in fear, and they all walked away laughing. Extremely hurt, I walked to the intersection and crossed the street.
Who knew that I could, while minding my own business, offend so many people?
Though shaken, I was still hungry and determined to find the Pizza Hut. It was in a huge mall that took up the space equivalent to 4 or 5 American city blocks. I walk up and see a long line, forcing me to stand outside and wait as every passerby stared and laughed. I get finally get a table and am able to eat near the back of the restaurant in relative peace.
Many people could, and have said, "just ignore them." "This is how they feel in America." "Just think of it like you're famous!" But I would argue that none of these things were felt in my experience. I doubt that they ever feel like this. I don't want to lessen their struggles and experience, but I cannot imagine that this is how they feel in America.
I hate it. In fact, I really hate being the center of attention in any situation. I can remember feeling like crying in my younger days when everyone would stop and stare at me while they sang "Happy Birthday to youuuuu!" Yeah. So one can only imagine how I feel when the attention is seemingly so negative every time you go anywhere.
Is it ignorance? Yes. In its most literal form.
Are there cultural differences? Yes.
Are they used to seeing black people? Absolutely not.
I have dealt with a lot of uncomfortable situations before. I have been in similar situations before while traveling abroad. I have gone to cultural sensitivity trainings, body language classes, and been in a myriad of other situations that have allowed me to have a fairly open mind, but being mocked and ridiculed on a daily basis is totally different. I have found myself making decisions like skipping meals to avoid having to go outside and I often give myself pep talks just to go across the street to the grocery store.
This Chinese experience is giving me a lot more of "other" than I could have ever imagined or prepared for.
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